The Restoration (continued)

The new refrigerator. Click image to see how the conversion was done

The Hydro-Flame gas heater sits under the oven and requires no electricity

We knew the gas only Dometic M16 refrigerator was dead, so it was next. I was able to get it to run again by cleaning up the burner. I would like to have saved the original unit but it had been unused for so long that too many parts were AWOL. There is something about porcelained steel and the aluminum frame that the new plastic lined boxes and doors don't have. I also don't feel that something running off a circuit board is going to last 30+ years, either. Anyway, no choice here - out it comes, and in place goes a new Dometic RM2333 ($700). There is no Dometic or Norcold available with the exact dimensions, so we went with the RM2333 - narrower and taller than the original - on paper at least. It turns out the old M16 had a cutout for the wheelwell, the RM2333 didn't. As a result, I had to rework the cabinetry to move it forward 1 1/2". I reworked the drawer-box, frame and drawer front to accommodate the taller fridge. Result is a nice silverware drawer. The original drawer bins moved over under the sink in new slots. New matching sheets of mahogany plywood on the door front and end panel, trimmed in old aluminum countertop trim finish the installation.

After finishing up the fridge, we followed the LP lines and dismantled the non-working Hydro-Flame heater. I dropped the bottom out of the combustion chamber and cleaned the burner. It had piled up with rust, scale, leaves & wasp nests from the outside vent flue. When all reinstalled it worked with a little tweaking of the pilot assembly.

The combustion chamber and control assembly. Access to the burner is through the bottom

The Bowen/Atwood hot water heater shroud is a work of 100% aluminum art

The original Bowen hot-water heater worked just fine, and needed just a little cleaning. The original exterior vent shrouds on these look so cool. In replacing a HW heater, it is best to install the new unit from the inside, or widen the opening behind the shroud, reinstalling the old shroud when done. The white flimsy modern replacement is one way to take the "style" right off your Airstream.
The electrical system was not in too bad of shape, just a few unterminated 110v wires from the earlier AC installation and some tidying up of some wiring replacements from over the years. We found two 14/2 original wires that I have no clue as to where they go. Check it out and let us know if you know.
The original heavy piston type Russel & Peters water pump

The plumbing required a lot of work due to age of the seals. All the faucets required Harcraft overhaul kits, the sink/lav/shower traps new freeze protection drain plugs, the water check valve a new rubber seat, and the water tank a thorough scrubbing (some sort of algae had taken up residence inside the tank). The original Peters & Russel water pump worked just fine. 1964/1965 was the first model year Airstream went from compressed air systems with galvanized tanks to water pumps and plastic tanks.