Windows
After 45+ years, expect the windows to be fully dysfunctional. Rebuilding them is one of the most important things you will do to a trailer, as it is imperative to prevent rain and critters from getting inside once you start on the interior, and since most windows won't open, it is hard to get any ventilation until repairs are made.  Here are the typical steps I used to repair the windows.

Before

Bent drip caps & dried out glazing seals

Corroded & rusty frames and screen
After

Post renovation - ready to trim the drip cap sealant

Cleaned & polished frames, new screen and seals

- click on images to enlarge -

Removing the corrosion from the window parts can be done with steel wool, but a Walter Finishing Line Tool is the way to go.

Rusted fasteners are replaced with new 6-32 Palnuts (original) and pan head screws (Vintage Trailer Supply.)

Completed window with the new glazing seal  from Vintage Trailer Supply.

After removing the rust, spray painted the center support.  It is a good idea to remove the the inner wind opening trim to clean up and to allow better access to replace the screens.

Tools of the trade - the Walter Line Finishing Tool, air drill motor with Scotch Brite disks, steel wool and various wire and abrasive wheels.

The exterior window seal is riveted in place, and is available from Vintage Trailer Supply.  It is advisable to replace this seal only if they are torn or crumbling. It takes Olympic Rivets to reinstall.

New galvanized steel screen (CornerHardware.com) is cut 3/4" longer than the oust side of the screen V- flange, then installed using a screen roller tool (BlaineHardware.com) pn S-3A. This shows why the inner trim needs to be removed.  The easiest way to replace the screens is to remove the entire window by drilling out all the rivets under the exterior seal, but would be a lot of work.
Any tail of the screen is tucked over and re-rolled with the screen roller tool.

The screen installed and the corrosion removed & ready for the window and drip cap install.

Both style openers are available from Vintage Trailer Supply or BlaineWindow (use part # 00020-9-TD-L(R)-037 and drill out the end guide). For smaller windows, you can use the 6 inch 00020-6-L(R)-037 from Blaine or the smaller operator available from VTS.

Replacement sliders can be made using a #10 nylon screw and nut, sanded down to 7/32" flats.  Once installed in the opener arm end, sand screw flush with the nut.  Or you can get new ones from Vintage Trailer Supply (see right)
A broad row of Vulkem sealant is applied to the straightened & cleaned drip cap.  The bent drip caps are easily straightened once they are removed from the trailer using flat nosed pliers.

Clecos temporarily hold the drip cap in place.

Olympic Rivets (Vintage Trailer Supply) being installed

Olympic Rivet Shaver tool

An Olympic Rivet.  Installed using a normal pop-rivet puller, and shaved with a drill mounted shaver. (Vintage Trailer Supply)

Other windows

The little side vent window.  These require a special opener that is available as a replacement (shown above) from Vintage Trailer Supply. They also can use the replcement Nylon Friction Pad.

The rear "Escape Style" window.  The window has a hinged frame, released by the two latches on the bottom, and swings up for escape.  The latch hooks used on all these windows are still available from Vintage Trailer Supply.

  The opener here shown is a LH teardrop style available from Blaine Window (see above).  The smaller generic replacements will not last here.

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