| Installation
- click on any image below to enlarge -
 
As usual, you spend more time
planning and mocking up than actual woodworking.
 
Images of the construction. It
is important to get the plumbing and water tanks
installed and tested before dong the final assembly
of all the supports.
 
To attached the table securely,
a shelf was placed under the window with a 1x2 riser
to get the table to the proper 30" height. Above
the window is a reproduction of the original sway-backed
shelf, but with a center cabinet to better support
it to the ceiling.
 
With the tanks in place and the
plumbing checked, I could continue with the seat
bottom supports. Under the RH dinette I placed a
storage drawer in the area of the tank cut-out.
 
The completed framework with the
area closed out behind the seat back, with a hinged
access door to the tank drain valve. (Right) the
1/2" birch base with full length piano hinge. The
back folds down to make the bed base.
 
A chrome cabinet latch keeps
the back secure during use and travel. Even with the
5 deg angle, I have found that if the backs aren't
secured, they tend to always be moving on you when
you get in and out or rest your arm behind you on
top of the cushion.
 
(Left) The Formica Coral Boomerang
is installed, and then banded with 3/4" polished
aluminum edging from Hoskin
& Muir. (Right) A big
problem with some dinette tops is they are just
a sheet of 3/4" plywood. That
will sway with time, and also is unstable. Here I
used 1x4's pocket-screwed together to form a frame
support. The
leg is from an old folding camp table.
 
To attach the table and allow
easy removal to drop the table down to make the bed,
a two sided support bracket designed for just this purpose
was used to attach ("hinge") the table at the front.
 
The underseat drawer gets a 3/8" birch
face and vintage squeeze latch, as does the overhead
locker.
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The cushions come later...
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