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Preparation

I cut a hole in the side under the new bed using a hole saw and pneumatic shears.

The opening is framed using a build-up of aluminum extrusions - 3/4" x 1" on the outside, 3/4" x 3/4" on the inside, and a 1/2" x 1/2" angle to form the stop lip. Materials came from MetalsDepot.

Seals are from Mc Master-Carr, but in retrospect the window and door seals from Vintage Trailer Supply would have been just as good, and been more prototypical.

 

The doors are formed from .050 2024-T3, riveted to a inner box frame made from 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" and .024 aluminum sheet.

 

The hinge is made from a 3/4 inch aluminum piano hinge from Airparts, riveted to a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/8" angle that will attach to the trailer skin.

 

The backside showing the inside box frame.

The outside, ready to install.  The side and lower edges were bent slightly up in a brake to give a finished edge like the originals.

The inside cutout for the keyed lock assembly, available from any RV parts store. A small piece of 1/2" angle serves as a catch.

Installed and ready for the drip cap. The Olympic rivets to attach the door to the trailer are in the hidden lower leg of the angle, next to the skin.

All installed.  The aft lower banana wrap (trim) will cover up the lower aft rivets and seam, and aluminum "J" channel trim will dress out the wheel-well.

View from the inside with the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/16 inch angle trim (Metals Depot) installed after the skin panel was reinstalled.

Refrigerator Door

While I was at it, I replaced the ugly door behind the refer in a similar manner (shown left). The original installation was just a flat piece of heavy aluminum and a steel hinge on the bottom, shimmed out with a piece of wood, held on with sheet metal screws.  Not too cool...

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