Polishing Pg.2

"The Polish" was the final step in the 9 month restoration of the Caravel. We saved it for last because the ongoing work on the exterior might damage the final finish if accomplished too early in the project. This is the step that cost dearly in terms of time, money and sweat expended, but is the one event that changed us from "the crazy neighbors with the ugly little toaster" to the "neighbors with the cool looking classic trailer". The methods outlined below are but some of the possible processes available to polish an Airstream. I experimented as I went, trying different products and procedures, and have noted the failures and successes. UPDATE February 2003. We have had the trailer polished for over 3 seasons. I've updated the entire Polish section to reflect our experiences with maintaining the finish, plus the results of further experimentation and introduction to new techniques learned on the 1956 Flying Cloud. First some basics.
Tools & Supplies Polisher Back in 1999 I mainly used a Cyclo 5 dual head polisher with different grades of foam heads (bonnets) and Rolite aircraft polishes. The "legendary" polishing tool, "the Cyclo 5 dual head random orbital polisher" - was designed primarily for polishing autos and aircraft finishes. We got ours from Top-of-the-Line via the Internet. Their prices were the lowest I found, and surprisingly good service. The Cyclo housing is well built and durable - I dropped mine more than once without damage. The aluminum housing makes it a little heavy at 7#, but the dual heads and balanced design results in one hand operation on the top skin surface. It is a good idea to oil the top bearing once a day with a light oil. I understand that the cheaper plastic body model knock-off has been discontinued due to poor reliability. I used about 16 of the foam pads back then in different grades. I no longer would recommend them. The pads required frequent cleaning and would fill with aluminum mud quickly, creating swirl marks. Since that time, the use of sweatshirt material on the Cyclo has become the preferred and easiest method. This is also less expensive, as it only requires the 3 each (1 as spare) of the Velcro boots, wool bonnets and terry cloth covers in addition to the sweatshirt material. More on this later. Another polisher is required if you are polishing an oxidized trailer. The amount of mud created during this initial removal is tremendous, and overloads foam pads and sweatshirt alike. The ideal tool is a 7 inch polish pad mounted on a low speed drill motor. This is sometimes refered to as a 'Compounder'. I've used this set up now on the Flying Cloud, and the initial rate and ease of removal is far beyond the Cyclo. I got a Porter Cable head and pad from Great Lakes, and then cut down a 5/8" bolt to fit it - I understand that you can now get this pre-done by Perfect-Polish. So, now I recommend using a low speed heavy-duty Drill motor and polish head initially, followed up with the Cyclo. Scaffolding Don't even attempt polishing without scaffolding of some sort. Not only is it dangerous, it is impossible to get above the window line without it. It can be commercial scaffolding, two A-frame ladders and a 2x12 plank, or a hybrid like I used - 2x12 plank on a multi-position ladder with an A-frame ladder for access (see Page 1 for image). With this set-up I was able to reach the middle of the trailer by fully extending myself (I'm 6ft). Real scaffolding would have got me even a little higher, which would have been ideal. Scaffolding is available at Equipment Rental Yards or for purchase from places such as Harbor Freight.
The Cyclo	The "Compounder"

Next >