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F.A.Q.'s
Leaks
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A: There is a well proven saying
- "All Airstreams leak". It usually shows as a wet floor somewhere
around the perimeter of the inside when it rains. A leak may occur
at, say a vent, it will run down between the skins and into the C
channel on the floor and then emerge onto the floor at a gap in the
C channel many feet away. As you can see, where the leak appears,
and where it really is, may be two different things.
A: Get an assistant and station
them inside the trailer where they can watch for the first appearance
of leakage. Squirt a garden hose on the suspected areas starting down
low and finishing high. Use direct spray on suspect spots. Often this
gets fast and definitive results, but in borderline cases could take
five minutes. Inspect the exterior area closely, looking for any breach
in the sealant. This usually works the best with the inside skins panels
removed during restoration.
A: On 7 panel endcap and later
trailers, rarely is it the skin panel seams unless there has been a
prior repair or damage. On the older trailers, especially the 13 panels,
the end caps are prone to leak. Most other sources are:
1) Doors. The source can be the door gasket or a badly fitting door. Also, it can be lack of proper caulking of the gutter over the top of the door. Inspect windows adjacent to the door.
2) Roof Vents. All vents are made by cutting a square hole in the roof. Then an upstanding collar is riveted to the roof. This joint is prone to leak about every ten years. Carefully scrape away old caulking and apply new. Look for loose rivets. Never use screws here. Note that the water can fall onto the ceiling inner panel and run in any direction before appearing.
3) Vent pipes and small fittings. Make sure the sealant is not brittle and dried out.
4) Windows. Sealant is required on the upper seams, and the gaskets and seals must be maintained.
5) Air-conditioners. Remove them and check the lip and opening they cover up. Also check the attachment holes. Use sealant to re-install the fasteners. This also a good time to clean the AC, as this will improve its efficiency greatly.
6) All the shrouds on the sides. Make sure all the mating seam sealant is in good condition.
7) Rear bumper. This is a big one for trailers where the bumper box is attached to the rear of the trailer or the frame channels continue past the end of the trailer shell. Water comes down the back of the trailer and is diverted by these horizontal surfaces right into the wood floor. Seal this juncture well with sealant.8) Screws into the skin. Previous owners are notorious for adding things with self-tapping screws - and they will all leak. Always use a dab of Vulkem (polyurethane) sealant on any rivet or screw you install.
A: Depends on where it is being
used. The most common sealant is a material called Vulkem 636 polyurethane
sealant, made by Tremco,
and is still used by Airstream in places. You will occasionally find
Vulkem 116 in Home Centers and Hardware stores. It is a textured
sealant, and is not the same, but works just fine in wheel-wells,
belly-skins and frame areas. The 6xx series Vulkem products are
marketed by Tremco to the manufacturing industry (like vehicle construction)
and the 1xx series Vulkem products are marketed to the construction
trades (like masons). The difference in numbering is for inventory
tracking purposes. Vintage
Trailer Supply is
a good source.
A: When done using the tube,
put a baggie over the end and throw it in the freezer. Take
it out next time and allow to thaw an hour or so. Throw it back
in again when done.
You can go on forever doing this until it is used all up.
A: Use a small syringe. (Vintage
Trailer Supply,
veterinarians & woodworking suppliers). It will apply a perfect 1/8” bead.
Use Mineral Spirits to clean any messes. Store your filled syringe
in the freezer too.
A: The bolts that hold the shell
to the floor do not pass through the chassis frame members.
The plywood floor and flooring
is installed on the chassis before the shell is secured to
the floor. The perimeter U channel is bolted to the plywood with
1/4" bolts
which are bent over underneath the floor. Additional sheet metal
screws are used to secure the channel into the floor. The belly skin
is then wrapped up from the bottom and secured to the U Channel with
rivets. In the 1950's, the belly skin is actually crimped over
into the C Channel. The upper skin is then attached to
the U Channel with rivets and covered with a trim strip. Depending
on the year & model,
there can be two small angles at the inside center front and rear
that tie the
skin to the floor.
As you can see, water damage and floor rot can cause the trailer shell to become
loose from the chassis, and is why it is very important to repair the floor
and to prevent any future leaks.
A: Store the trailer in a barn
or under a carport.
A: From the very first in 1936, the frame was covered on the
bottom by a smooth aerodynamic aluminum skin belly pan.
A: The pan provides a seal against
rodents and protects the steel frame from the elements. It is also
important in reducing
wind resistance. By all means repair it. Drill out the broken 3/16" rivets
and replace them with pop-rivets. Use fender washers or larger pop-rivets
if the holes are elongated. Olympic Rivets are not needed here. While
you are under there, carefully patch any holes you find with pieces
of aluminum sheet. To see our belly skin replacement, check
out this section.
A: The underbelly was non-alclad
.024 inch 2024- O aluminum. Very thin soft stuff. What
has proven to be a better and less expensive replacement is .024" 3003
or 5056 aluminum
sheet. It's
one-third the cost, corrosion resistant and is much more more dent
resistant.
A: See the answer above under “Leaks”.
