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F.A.Q.'s
Buying
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A: If this will be your only
RV, I can't stress the importance enough that you consider one in good
condition, and as
ready
to roll as
possible. Nothing is more disheartening than the seemingly never-ending
work to be done on an older poor condition trailer - and in the meantime
the seasons go by without you and your family out enjoying camping and
traveling. If there is one major cause of unfinished trailers being sold
because the owner loses interest, it is this. It is advisable to get
a
newer trailer to tinker with and maintain, and then after you are comfortable
with RV'ing and Airstreams, then get your "dream restoration"
Airstream. It is also a way to become familiar with your likes and needs
before embarking on a major project. This way there will be no
regrets and compromises.
A: Think through how you plan to use the trailer. How
many people, what length of trips, where do you plan to go? Are you interested
in vintage era (nostalgia) camping? Do you love restoring and fixing things?
What size and quality tow vehicle are you willing to purchase? Will the
trailer be just parked, or will you travel?
Then ask yourself, what is the smallest trailer that will fit my needs?
What is the largest trailer I will be able to tow? What is the largest
trailer that will go where I want to go? (many campground sites and
mountain roads will limit the max length).
Look at trailers until your objectives are clear. Get the right trailer
for your needs and wants, don't grab at the first one to come along.
It
makes no sense to try and modify something into something it can never
be. If you truly want a custom made interior, it makes no financial sense
to buy a good condition trailer and throw out the interior. If you really
like the looks of oak wood, don't buy a mahogany interior and spend years
trying to lighten the wood. If you have a large family, truly consider
a larger trailer, even if "Bambi's are cute". You can always
get another trailer later as your needs change.
A: Model names mean very little
in an Airstream. Until 1964, there were many model names for the
same trailer, even with the same layouts. Since Airstreams
were custom to begin with, and over the years many have been remodeled,
setting out to find a certain "model" will be virtually impossible. Think
more along the lines of length, much like Avions and Argosys did. Where
you start having better luck is in 1965 and later, where Airstream settles
down into 6 standard lengths and model names. Even
then, with custom orders, you are going to find a wide range of layouts
and options in the same model and length.
A: Airstream was marketed to
older affluent couples starting about then, and these buyers showed
a preference to larger bathrooms, something not available with a
center
bath. Be it for mobility, or whatever reason, Airstream responded.
A few were made with a center bath, and a have a "B" in
the serial number,
but are rare. The less expensive Argosy, targeted towards families,
has more models with a center bath.
A: Value is very subjective, and
will vary greatly by condition, location, model and time of year. I’ve
created a section that discusses condition vs price, and includes
a price guide. It is a fact though, a more expensive but better
condition trailer will be the better value and cheaper in the end.
Repairs and parts, even if you do much of the labor, will get expensive
very quickly. It is not uncommon to spend $8,000-$12,000 to get an
Airstream that hasn't been used in a while up to a reliable travel
ready condition. A full restoration or renovation can run about $12,000
to $18,000, more if you pay someone else to do it. When this
surprises people, I ask them: if you were to come across a 1955 Chevy
pickup sitting in a field, or even an old barn, would you expect
it to haul it home and then start driving it across country after
you clean it up some? Heck
no, and an old trailer is no different. Every
mechanical part, every gasket, every bit of that car will be suspect,
as will a similar vintage era trailer.
This can be analogous across the decades. You can probably find
a 1980's car that can be fixed up rather easily, a 1970's car and you
are looking at a lot of worn out stuff, a 1960's car would need a ton
of money to get road worthy, and a 1950's car would require a ground
up restoration just to be usable. Ditto for the same age trailers.
A:
1) The shell should have no more than a few small shallow dents or light hail damage, no scores or scrapes running down the sides. It need not be polished.
2) The interior should be 90% original.
3) The major appliances such as water heater and refrigerator work, otherwise a reduction is in order. It is OK to ask the owner to demonstrate that the plumbing does not leak and that the refrigerator will make ice cubes.
4) Solid tires with no checking.
5) The floor should be solid throughout.
6) The trailer has been used regularly, and has been annually maintained.
A trailer that has been sitting unused for awhile
will not be considered “average”,
no matter what the seller tries to tell you.
A: After phoning your insurance agent and changing the
title with the Motor Vehicle Dept., drive it to a dealer and ask them
to inspect the brakes and wheels. While you're at it, you might ask them
to inspect and fix any gas appliances. Make sure your vehicle's tow rating
and hitch are suitable for the trailer.
A: Unless you can find a US RV dealer
that specializes exporting, your best bet is to go through one of the
organizations in Europe designed to address Airstream caravan importing
and the necessary conversions and laws. Fractional ownership is
also a good idea to share costs.:
A:Your cheapest bet will always
be coming across one parked alongside the road for sale by owner - or
their heirs/executor. Next is the friend of a friend network. After
that is the local papers. finally there is the internet. Here
you would find more selection, but also more competition, and expect
to pay higher overall prices and transportation costs that sometimes
can be equal to the cost of the trailer itself. I
have a listing of "For Sale" websites here.
A: The first owners manuals were
published in 1964. Prior to that, the owner received a brown envelope
containing parts lists and
other helpful information on the accessories in his trailer. A service
manual with instructions for performing service operations did not exist
until 1972.
You can get photocopies of owners manual (1964+) and service manuals (1972-1986)
from:
Helen Davis Secretarial Services
PO Box 484 Sidney, OH 45365
(937)492-8885
Prices are about $33 and $70 respectively. After 1986 the Owners Manuals
included available service information.
A: Serial numbers weren't standardized
until the mid 1960's. I've captured these eearly formats in the info
under each model type in the photo archive
section.
For late model trailers:
1973 to 1980
Digit 1 = I - International L - Land Yacht
Digit 2&3 = Length
Digit 4 =
A - Center bath twin beds
B - Center bath double bed
D - Rear Bath double bed
T - Rear bath twin
Digit 5 = Model year
Digit 6 =
J - Jackson Center, OH
S - Cerritos, CA
V - Versailles, OH (Argosy)
Digit 7-10 = Sequential serial number
A: They followed the new VIN laws, and were structured
to DOT and SAE specs. See
this explanation.
A: From 1969 to 1980, the type face on the serial
number plates changed to a san-serif modern style, and the new "I" is
just a simple vertical straight line - same as the number"1", so you
can’t whether its an "I" or a "1" by looking
at it. But since the other option levels for 1969 to 1980 use letters,
E for Excella and L for Land Yacht, it’s assumed it is the
letter "I" for
International, not a "1".
A: In September of the prior year. For example,
a trailer made in October of 1958 is a 1959 trailer.
A: Call the agent for your automobile insurance. Also,
Foremost Insurance Company (1-800-527-3905) specializes in trailer
coverage. The laws vary from state to state, but in general the liability
coverage for your tow car can be extended to cover your trailer as well.
It's the fire, theft and damage on the trailer that is a separate coverage.
$10,000 of coverage is about $250/year.
A: Many companies have such a rule. If you feel that
the replacement value of your trailer is say, $12,000, and you are willing
to pay the added premium, ask for stated value coverage. Work with your
agent. The insurance company will probably agree. It may require receipts
for parts and labor accomplished.
